Creation Trends: Fingers To The Wind, Hands In The Dough

Peter Reinhardt, a chef and instructor at Johnson & Wales University, Providence, R.I., dubs this trend “street food done right,” while Barton describes a widespread attempt to create “authentic, vibrant regional cuisines.”

James Schenk, chef and owner of San Francisco’s Destino, a South American bistro, has given Peruvian arepas (stuffed cornmeal biscuits) a prominent spot on his menu, while at Ciudad in downtown Los Angeles, cuchifrito — “little fried” street foods such as pressed Cuban sandwiches and plantain chips — are prominent on the Happy Hour menu. And at Bangkok Joe’s on K St. in Washington, D.C., (described by the Washington Diplomat as “an upscale venue for traditional Asian street foods”) dumplings, rice bowls and other dishes of humble origin are the main draw.

Quick Fix

Our Chefs’ Council continues to see ethnic cuisines by region becoming more fractured and fragmented with time. Rather than speaking only of Mexican food, we’re hearing greater emphasis on sub-cuisines, i.e. from Oaxaca, Veracruz, Jalisco and Yucatan. A little farther south, the distinctions narrow as well: Peruvian, Andean-Peruvian, Chilean, Colombian and so on.

And, of course, the U.S.’s own sub-regional cuisines are gaining more attention and respect from culinary opinion leaders. “I definitely think there’s room for more regional cuisine restaurants in the U.S.,” says Adrian Hoffman, chef and partner at San Francisco’s One Market restaurant. “People are tired of going to an ‘Italian’ restaurant to have Neapolitan versions of pizza and pasta. They learned there’s more to Tuscan food than beef carpaccio with arugula. Let them now discover the great foods of Sicily, Piedmont, and the North.”

Smaller Plates, Big Impact

“Small plates and small bites still have momentum,” notes Michael Dellar, president of Dellar Restaurant Enterprises and co-owner of several Bay Area institutions, including the storied Lark Creek Inn. Barbecue guru Raichlen agrees: “I think tapas, mezes and other small plates will continue to be big, as will restaurants comprised entirely of grazing and tasting menus.”

The fast and the curious are also a part of the new scene. There was broad consensus among respondents that fast-food establishments will continue down the path of healthier offerings. Some, including pastry chef and food writer Jennifer Millar, believe the bigger chains will ultimately have to respond aggressively to the organic trend as well. “The push for organic fast food and prepared food will become ever stronger,” she notes.

So many opinions, so little space. Our survey touched on a wide range of other issues as well, including those specific to fine and casual dining, health foods and convenience. The full report is available in print or digital form and may be purchased either by writing me directly at mhalperin@ccdsf.com or by calling 415-693-8910.