Confectioners Returning to Their Chocolate Roots

Michael Antonorsi and other micro confectionery stars help the industry giants remain chocolatiers, not just candy factories.

By Bob Sperber, Plant Operations Editor

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Despite their size and mastery of mass-production technology, even the world's biggest confectioners are learning new tricks from small, culinary chocolatiers. It's an acknowledgement that small indulgences can help even penny-conscious consumers survive a recession as long as the product delights.

Top chocolatiers such as Jacques Torres have worked as consultants for industry giants. Both parties can win because the large processor-marketer gains access to chefs versed in experimentation and may help develop a hit product, while the small operator retains independence.

Interest by Big Chocolate in small gourmet idea mills is nothing new. Earlier in the decade, for example, Hershey created an Artisan Confections Co. unit aimed at capitalizing on demand for premium, handcrafted chocolates. The company has since shuttered two of the chocolatiers it acquired, Scharffen Berger and Joseph Schmidt, which offered "great strategic opportunities for Hershey to capitalize on the high-growth, on-trend premium chocolate segment," said Richard Lenny, Hershey's chairman, president and CEO, in 2005. There may be long-term benefits for Hershey, however, as the company gained intellectual capital beyond its initial goals, which included bolstering its upscale department store gourmet business.

"As people look for fresher, more natural [and premium] products, manufacturing becomes an issue," says Michael Antonorsi, a master chef who thinks in recipes, not formulas. He and brother Richard, expatriates of Venezuela with multigenerational cocoa in their blood, founded Chuao Chocolatier in 2002.

Michael Antonorsi
Michael Antonorsi in the Chuao Chocolatier plant: While batches are limited to the 160 lbs. of a traditional chocolate wheel, moulding has increased from 50 to 600 moulds an hour as Chuao has grown.

Known for their all-natural fusion approach to fine chocolate, their company grew from one kitchen and store in the San Diego area to three. This growth, a 25,000-sq.-ft. plant and growing, national distribution ranging from Whole Foods to Wal-Mart – anywhere gourmet chocolates are sold – have landed Chuao on cable TV's Food Network, the network morning shows and in some of the chocolate industry's biggest plants as a consultant.

Chuao's roots are in wild flavor fusions that cater more to adult tastes – such as goat cheese, curry, cumin and cayenne pepper. One of the most popular examples is the Firecracker bar, a chipotle caramel fudge truffle with popping candy (think Pop Rocks) and dark chocolate.

As both a manufacturer and a nascent consultant, Antonorsi is sensitive to the "realities and restrictions" of creating and producing products en masse. The contrasts are stark between a typical large plant and his own, artisan operation.

In his own products he uses no preservatives and favors natural ingredients to the utmost. "We don't even use natural flavorings. We use only the real deal," he says. So if he wants cinnamon in his chocolate, he won't use even a natural oil concentrate. So it's tricky to scale up his artisan recipes to mass production. But when done right, chocolate turns into gold.

In terms of the mechanicals, Chuao's plant is based on "the artisan principles of chocolate – small batch, lots of control. We are a HACCP facility. We are in more than 5,000 points of sale nationwide, but we're still a very small player out there," he says. Being both a plant operator and a consultant to the big brands, the chef-turned consultant sees both sides of the art and science of volume production.

His own batches at Chuao are limited to the capacity of his smallest piece of equipment. "We are still operating in a very traditional style of Belgian style of chocolate using a little chocolate wheel." This limits production to 160-lb. batches. While the technology predates depositing lines, the end result has earned Chuao's gourmet products the national epicurean spotlight.

That's not to say production hasn't become more efficient. The little plant started out handling 50 moulds an hour with labor done completely by hand. Today, a machine moulds roughly 600 moulds an hour. "And if we grow, eventually we'll get into another moulding line or else a faster line," says Antonorsi. He's "constantly" looking for new equipment to operate more efficiently, however he draws the line at technology that "transforms the product into something different."
For example, if he wants a full-nut bar, he won't change it to chopped nuts just to accommodate a machine. In addition to being principled, he's also realistic; he can't buy every piece of whiz-bang technology to solve problems, such as evenly depositing nuts just-so. But he will cobble together prototypes to accomplish what he needs.

Plant solutions start small
A small company adding equipment isn't all that different than a large one testing a new product, because new lines typically start small. Leading companies often even buy the same equipment as small processors, scaling-up for high volume only after success in the handful of test markets.

While there are some stark contrasts between small plants like Chuao's and those operated by the biggies, the chocolate-making process hasn't changed all that much for decades, even hundreds of years. Smaller plants typically begin by melting 10-lb. blocks or wafer-type bulk chocolate in tanks, to a temperature that allows the crystal structure to form. The chocolate is then tempered or cooled to enable the crystals to form with the cocoa butter, and unstable crystals are heated-off, then run through an enrober or moulding process then cooled and packaged.

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